Quartier du Commerce


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quartier du Commerce

The best way to get the flavor of the quartier du Commerce is to start walking down the avenue de la Motte-Picquet, where the Champ de Mars meets the Ecole Militaire. At the corner the brasseries throng with officers from the Ecole, and the hundred-odd antique shops in the snooty Village Suisse (all open Thurs – Mon; ⓦwww.theswissvillage.com) display endless chandeliers and gilt furnishings. At the boulevard de Grenelle, where the métro trundles above the street on iron piers, things relax a little. Rue du Commerce, which stretches to the south, preserves a distinctive and very pleasant village atmosphere, its prettily shuttered houses lined with small shops and cafés, this upscale respectability would have been a surprise to the working-class diners who once filled the three storey’s of the Café du Commerce (see p.321 and p.341), or to George Orwell, who worked on the street as a dishwasher, a gritty experience described in the Down and Out in Paris and London. Towards the street’s southern end, place du Commerce is distinguished by its late nineteenth-century bandstand, while, just beyond, the church of St-Jean Baptiste de Grenellle frames the end of the road handsomely.



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